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  • [Tรผrkiye 1-Month Road Trip] #7.  The Ultimate EskiลŸehir Travel Guide, Tรผrkiye’s Very Own Mini Venice

    [Tรผrkiye 1-Month Road Trip] #7. The Ultimate EskiลŸehir Travel Guide, Tรผrkiye’s Very Own Mini Venice

    #7. The “Venice of Tรผrkiye,” where the romance and art of the Porsuk River flow!


    👉Urgent Route Change Due to Heavy Snow in Northern Cappadocia

    Before we knew it, our one-month car rental journey through Turkey had passed its halfway point. Our original plan was to drive north from Cappadocia and spend about three days in Safranbolu or Bolu, towns famous for their cozy Ottoman-style architecture.

    However, winter weather in Tรผrkiye is harsh and unpredictable. Continuous heavy snow in the northern region brought road closures and safety hazards. We concluded that forcing a long-distance drive on snowy, unfamiliar foreign roads was simply too risky.

    Considering our itinerary back to our final destination, Istanbul, we had to make a decisive choice. That is how our destination was urgently changed to EskiลŸehir.

    A Much-Needed ‘Pause’ to Recharge Amid a Hectic Schedule

    Moving consecutively between cities, endlessly exploring sights, and driving long distances had left both my wife and me physically and mentally exhausted. Furthermore, once this trip to EskiลŸehir ended, an intense 8-day walking marathon awaited us in Istanbulโ€”the ultimate finale of this series.

    For us, therefore, EskiลŸehir was less about glamorous sightseeing and more about a ‘breathing space’ to care for our tired bodies and minds, preparing for the grand journey ahead.


    1. Departure from Cappadocia, Via ‘Lake Tuz (Tuz Gรถlรผ)’

    On the route from Cappadocia (Gรถreme) to EskiลŸehir, Lake Tuz, one of Tรผrkiye’s most iconic natural wonders, is naturally located. The distance from Cappadocia to Lake Tuz is about 196 km, taking roughly 2 hours and 30 minutes by car.

    Following Highway D300 and D750 toward Aksaray, this smooth route is renowned as one of the best scenic drives to experience the vast plains of Central Anatolia.

    Tuz Gรถlรผ, Turkey's second-largest lake and a major source of salt, accounting for approximately 60% of the country's total salt production.

    Tuz Gรถlรผ, Turkey’s second-largest lake and a major source of salt, accounting for approximately 60% of the country’s total salt production.

    Completely different from the vibrant blue and white salt desert of summer, a solitary yet serene white snowy landscape stretched wide over the winter lake.

    Stepping out of the car to breathe in the crisp, cold air while gazing at the endless horizon seemed to instantly wash away the fatigue accumulated from hours of driving. Strolling quietly around Lake Tuz with my wife, we fully enjoyed this unexpected gift from our sudden route change.

    Let’s start the ultimate eskisehir travel!


    2. Arrival in EskiลŸehir, and a Thunderous First Impression

    After a brief rest at Lake Tuz, we took the wheel again toward our final destination, EskiลŸehir. The drive from Lake Tuz to EskiลŸehir requires covering another 300 km, taking about 3 hours and 20 minutes.

    The route bypasses the southern outskirts of Ankara and goes straight west along the D200 (E90) highway. Combining the departure from Cappadocia and the stop at Lake Tuz, this was a massive journey totaling nearly 500 km and 6 hours of driving in a single day. I highly recommend that anyone planning a road trip take regular breaks at rest stops to manage their stamina.

    We finally entered downtown EskiลŸehir and unpacked our bags at our accommodation.

    “BOOMใƒผใƒผใƒผ!”

    On our very first day, a massive, sky-tearing roar startled us, prompting me to look out the window. As it turned out, the sound came from the historic EskiลŸehir Air Base located northeast of the city, which conducts regular jet fighter takeoff drills multiple times a day.

    It was an unexpected twist for a city I thought would be purely quiet and cozy, serving as a powerful first impression that made us fully realize this city is a core hub for Tรผrkiyeโ€™s military and aviation. This daily roar became a uniquely defining symbol of EskiลŸehir throughout our stay.

    💡 Interesting Facts to Know About EskiลŸehir

    • The Crossroads of Anatolian Civilizations: Literally translated, EskiลŸehir means ‘Old City.’ Founded by the Phrygians around 1000 BC, the area holds numerous relics tied to King Midas of Greek mythology in the nearby Phrygian Valley. Known as the ancient city of ‘Dorylaeum’ during the Roman and Byzantine periods, it flourished thanks to its fertile land and hot springs. It later served as a vital military and political springboard for the founding of the Ottoman Empire.
    • A City of Youth, Art, and Water: Home to massive national institutions like Anadolu University, the city has an exceptionally high student population. Consequently, it features one of the most open, vibrant, and trendy cafe cultures in Tรผrkiye.
    • The Venice of Tรผrkiye, Porsuk River: Flowing through the city center, the Porsuk River (Porsuk ร‡ayฤฑ) was beautifully restored into a canal system. With gondolas floating on the water and green lawns lining the banks, it creates an exotic, European resort-like atmosphere.

    3. Raiding our Airbnb and Migros Supermarket

    A Cozy 2-Bedroom Apartment with a Full Kitchen

    My wife and I have maintained a vital travel rule throughout our rental car road trip: our accommodation must have a functional kitchen. This was essential for managing my wife’s dietary needs based on her health, and after a month on the road, relying solely on local restaurant food can become challenging. We preferred maintaining our own dining routine.

    Our choice in EskiลŸehir was an Airbnb apartment featuring a spacious living room and a fully equipped kitchen. The moment we opened the door, it felt just like home, providing the perfect sanctuary to rest and recharge.

    Embracing Local Vibes: Utilizing Migros and Neighborhood Markets

    Our daily life in EskiลŸehir revolved around local markets. We frequently visited ‘Migros,’ Tรผrkiye’s leading supermarket chain, to pick up fresh ingredients, and dropped by small neighborhood shops for incredibly affordable local fruits and vegetables. Cooking our own meals in the apartment kitchen felt far healthier, more relaxing, and happier than dining at any famous restaurant.


    4. Exploring the Core of EskiลŸehir: Fairytale Sazova Park and Historical Odunpazarฤฑ

    Since ‘rest’ was the main objective of this stop, we didn’t rush to visit every single attraction. Instead, we leisurely explored a few key spots we truly wanted to see.

    โ‘  A Magical Walk Through Sazova Science, Art, and Culture Park Despite the Chill

    Our first stop in EskiลŸehir was Sazova Park, the city’s green lung and a massive cultural hub. Entering through the main gates, you immediately notice a giant glass dome structure housing the Science Experiment Center, adjacent to the Esminyatรผrk Miniature Park.

    Due to the biting cold and our schedule, we decided to skip the indoor exhibitions and headed straight toward the magical castle.

    A science experiment center housed in a massive glass dome structure, located to the left of the park's main entrance.

    A science experiment center housed in a massive glass dome structure, located to the left of the park’s main entrance.

    The park is incredibly vast (approx. 400,000 ใŽก), and as we walked, a large artificial lake opened up before us. On the calm winter waters, elegant white swans swam leisurely. Seeing these untamed swans wandering comfortably alongside visitors, with a fairytale castle rising in the background, made us feel as though we had suddenly stepped onto a Nordic lakeshore.

    A beautiful white pavilion with a blue roof and swans on the far side of the lake(left), two swans swimming leisurely(right)

    Just beyond, a massive wooden pirate shipโ€”a meticulous reproduction of a 17th-century galleon from the Age of Discoveryโ€”stood in grand splendor. Seeing a full-scale pirate ship was enough to spark the imagination of any adult traveler, making us feel ready to set sail for a treasure island. The winter stillness and overcast sky actually added a layer of mystery to this enchanting view.

    A life-sized pirate ship that faithfully recreates a sailing vessel from the 17th-century Age of Discovery.

    A life-sized pirate ship that faithfully recreates a sailing vessel from the 17th-century Age of Discovery.

    Walking along the wide lake, a magnificent, beautiful castle with bright blue conical roofs slowly unveiled itself. We had finally arrived at the crown jewel of Sazova Park: The Fairytale Castle (Masal ลžatosu)!

    Looking like it was lifted directly out of Disneyland, its surreal visual instantly captured our gaze, making it immediately clear why this is a mandatory stop in EskiลŸehir. Interestingly, this castle is not a mere imitation of Western fairytales.

    Spires with blue roofsโ€”reminiscent of a Disney castleโ€”blend with the lake to create a mystical atmosphere.

    Spires with blue roofsโ€”reminiscent of a Disney castleโ€”blend with the lake to create a mystical atmosphere.

    According to the information board, it is profoundly ‘Turkish,’ designed as an homage that combines the architectural styles of iconic historical towers across the country, such as Istanbul’s Galata Tower and Topkapฤฑ Palace, and Antalya’s Yivli Minare.

    An information board stating that the structure was created by combining features of iconic Turkish buildings.

    An information board stating that the structure was created by combining features of iconic Turkish buildings.

    Spotting architectural nods to Antalya, which we had just left, and Istanbul, where we were heading, in this distant small city felt truly unique.

    Finally, the highlight of Sazova Park comes into view: the Fairy Tale Castle!

    The highlight of Sazova Park comes into view: the Fairy Tale Castle!

    The front view of the "Fairy Tale Castle" (Masal ลžatosu), the main landmark of Sazova Park, featuring a combination of blue conical roofs and white stone walls.

    The front view of the “Fairy Tale Castle” (Masal ลžatosu), the main landmark of Sazova Park, featuring a combination of blue conical roofs and white stone walls.

    We climbed up to the upper terrace of the blue towers to look down at the park square and the sweeping panoramic view of EskiลŸehir stretching into the distance. Taking in the crisp winter wind while watching people stroll below completely cleared our minds, achieving the perfect sense of healing and relaxation we had sought.

    A view of the castle entrance looking down from the railing of the blue conical tower at the top of the Sazova Castle.

    A view of the castle entrance looking down from the railing of the blue conical tower at the top of the Sazova Castle.

    A view of Sazova Park stretching out below the castle railing.

    A view of Sazova Park stretching out below the castle railing

    Surrounding the castle was a green playground featuring a whimsical tree-stump house straight out of ‘Peter Pan’ and cozy wooden swings. Walking through this charming park felt like wandering along a peaceful, healing trail.

    A grassy playground featuring a house shaped like a giant tree stumpโ€”straight out of *Peter Pan* or an enchanted forestโ€”and a swing set.

    A grassy playground featuring a house shaped like a giant tree stumpโ€”straight out of Peter Pan or an enchanted forestโ€”and a swing set.

    To escape the cold and take a brief break, we stepped into ‘Ses Lounge,’ a spacious cafe and restaurant boasting a beautiful view of Sazova Park’s lake. Offering a direct, frontal view of the Fairytale Castle through its massive windows, this modern spot is highly popular among locals for having the best view and cleanest interior for brunch and desserts.

    Inside the Ses Lounge Cafe(left), the Fairy Tale Castle is visible in the distance through the cafe’s floor-to-ceiling windows.

    Sipping warm drinks while looking out at the lake and castle left us feeling completely restored.

    โ‘ก Colorful Ottoman-Style Wooden Homes: Odunpazarฤฑ Historical Houses

    Leaving Sazova Park, we headed to the destination that holds the ancient soul of EskiลŸehir: The Odunpazarฤฑ Historical Urban Site.

    Meaning ‘Timber Market’ in Turkish, this area honors its history as an old trading hub for wood. It functions as an ‘open-air museum,’ beautifully preserving traditional Anatolian town layouts and Ottoman-period architecture.

    The houses are typically two to three stories high with wooden frames. Their most distinctive feature is the ‘Cumba,’ an enclosed bay window protruding over the street on the upper floors, designed practically to catch more sunlight and view the roads.

    The exterior walls are painted in bright pastel shades of yellow, blue, and pink, turning every single alleyway into an incredible photo backdrop. The architecture warmly reminded us of the streets of Kaleiรงi Old Town, which we shared in our Chapter 5 Antalya guide.

    Entering the central square of the historical district, you see the yellow ‘Odunpazarฤฑ Art Center (Odunpazarฤฑ Sanat Merkezi)’ selling traditional crafts on the left. In the center, the bold red and black flags of the local football club, EskiลŸehirspor, hang proudly.

    The statue in the middle of the square stands as a monument to the figures who spearheaded EskiลŸehir’s modernization.

    The entrance to the central square of the Odunpazarฤฑ traditional house district.

    The entrance to the central square of the Odunpazarฤฑ traditional house district

    Moving past the main road and climbing up the narrower, steeper cobblestone paths reveals a quiet, authentic glimpse into the daily lives of local residents. Walking past rows of vibrant pastel houses of yellow, crimson, and cyan brought pure joy to our eyes, transforming a potentially bleak winter alley into a warm, storybook village.

    The sharp contrast of colors against the gray winter sky created a uniquely exotic and inviting atmosphere.

    Colorful flowerpots on the terrace evoke the unique winter atmosphereโ€”at once wistful and heartwarming. Charming alleyways preserving the traditional wooden architecture of the Ottoman era

    Colorful flowerpots on the terrace evoke the unique winter atmosphereโ€”at once wistful and heartwarming.

    Colorful flowerpots on the terrace evoke the unique winter atmosphereโ€”at once wistful and heartwarming. Charming alleyways preserving the traditional wooden architecture of the Ottoman era

    Charming alleyways preserving the traditional wooden architecture of the Ottoman era

    A scene featuring colorful traditional housesโ€”with a striking blue exterior wall on the left side of the alley contrasting with a pink one on the rightโ€”and the atmosphere of a relaxed, quiet afternoon.


    5. EskiลŸehir Local Gastronomy: ‘ร‡ibรถrek,’ a Traditional Tatar Delicacy

    👍The Definition of Crispy Yet Juicy: A Dining Review of Arasta Kฤฑrฤฑm Tatar ร‡ibรถrek Evi

    Exploring every corner of the peaceful Odunpazarฤฑ alleys eventually brought on a welcomed hunger. We headed out to taste the ultimate soul food of EskiลŸehirโ€”‘ร‡ibรถrek’โ€”a traditional pastry brought to this region by Crimean Tatar immigrants.

    Drawn in by a vivid red banner while walking through the colorful streets, we stumbled upon an authentic restaurant called ‘Arasta Kฤฑrฤฑm Tatar ร‡ibรถrek Evi,’ located near the historic Arasta Bazaar (Arasta ร‡arลŸฤฑsฤฑ). We later learned it is widely celebrated for serving some of the most authentic Tatar-style รงibรถrek in the city.

    'Arasta Kฤฑrฤฑm Tatar ร‡ibรถrek Evi,' an authentic *รงibรถrek* restaurant

    ‘Arasta Kฤฑrฤฑm Tatar ร‡ibรถrek Evi,’ an authentic รงibรถrek restaurant

    Banner at the restaurant entrance

    Banner at the restaurant entrance

    The restaurant offers sets of traditional meat-filled รงibรถrek (Kฤฑymalฤฑ) and cheese-filled รงibรถrek (Peynirli). Mindful of my wife’s dietary routine while wanting to experience the true local flavor, we ordered a mix of authentic minced beef and cheese รงibรถrek.

    ร‡ibรถrek menu(left), A menu board that visually displays the restaurant’s signature dishes(right)

    A framed-style poster that visually highlights the core element and the main dish

    A framed-style poster that visually highlights the core element and the main dish

    Shortly after ordering, the freshly fried, golden-brown รงibรถrek arrived at our table, steaming alongside traditional hot Turkish tea, ‘ร‡ay.’ It was fascinating to see how they puffed up like thin balloons without appearing greasy at all. Served with a side of spicy sauce and homemade pickles to balance the richness, our perfect local meal was complete.

    Two types of รงibรถrek (cheese & beef) served with sauce and homemade pickles

    Two types of รงibรถrek (cheese & beef) served with sauce and homemade pickles

    Lifting a piece carefully by hand, I took a big bite. A delightful, resounding “CRUNCH!” echoed as the warm, savory beef juices trapped within the pastry burst forward. The balance between the ultra-thin, crispy exterior and the tender, juicy filling inside was the absolute textbook definition of ‘crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside.’

    Beef Cibรถrek

    Beef Cibรถrek

    Cheese Cibรถrek. This *รงibรถrek* was the ultimate EskiลŸehir travel.

    Cheese Cibรถrek. This รงibรถrek was the ultimate EskiลŸehir travel.

    They say the true essence of a great รงibรถrek lies in that initial burst of savory broth. Enjoying this rich pastry paired with a cup of hot ร‡ay completely melted away the fatigue built up from long-distance driving and walking through the biting winter wind.

    This culinary moment beautifully reaffirmed why EskiลŸehir served as the ultimate punctuation mark of rest for us.

    This รงibรถrek was the ultimate EskiลŸehir travel!


    6. Strolling Along Porsuk River and Kent Park

    โ‘  ‘The Venice of Tรผrkiye’: Porsuk River and the Love Bridge

    The Porsuk River flows right through the heart of downtown EskiลŸehir. While it earns the nickname ‘The Venice of Tรผrkiye’ in the summer when gondolas grace its waters, the riverbanks we encountered in winter were calm, quiet, and deeply peaceful.

    The entrance to a bridge spanning the Porsuk River, featuring elegant, vintage-style turquoise iron railings and classic European-style gas-lamp streetlights

    The entrance to a bridge spanning the Porsuk River, featuring elegant, vintage-style turquoise iron railings and classic European-style gas-lamp streetlights

    Walking slowly along the vibrant riverfront lined with cafes where local university students gather, we discovered a romantic bridge covered in colorful padlocks locked tightly to the railings. It was the iconic ‘Love Bridge’ (AลŸk Kรถprรผsรผ).

    An arched wooden bridgeโ€”an iconic landmark of the Porsuk Riverโ€”featuring a heart-shaped sign inscribed with the word 'AลŸk' (Love)

    An arched wooden bridgeโ€”an iconic landmark of the Porsuk Riverโ€”featuring a heart-shaped sign inscribed with the word ‘AลŸk’ (Love)

    Standing on the bridge with my wife, quietly watching the river flow, was a serene moment that highlighted the true beauty of an independent road tripโ€”free from the rush of a tight package tour.

    โ‘ก Kent Park: A Heartwarming Encounter at the Tรผrkiye-Korea Friendship Monument

    Continuing our walk along the river, our steps naturally led us into the nearby Kent Park. Spanning roughly 300,000 ใŽก on what was once a swampland, this massive urban oasis features beautifully manicured grounds and even boasts Tรผrkiye’s very first artificial urban beach.

    The view of the sprawling artificial lake flowing through the center of Kent Park was incredibly exotic, with a charming pedestrian bridge cutting across and the blue sky reflecting perfectly on the water’s surface.

    A large artificial pond flowing through the center of Kent Park

    A large artificial pond flowing through the center of Kent Park

    The arched bridge connecting the walking paths is covered in a deep red carpet-like material, creating a striking contrast with the blue water.

    An arched bridge connecting across the pond

    An arched bridge connecting across the pond

    In the middle of the trail, we also came across a realistic bronze sculpture titled ‘Lady Sculpture’โ€”showing a woman sitting on a bench holding a bouquet of flowersโ€”which served as a wonderful photo spot.

    A bronze sculpture titled 'Woman with Flowers,' depicting a woman holding a bouquet while seated on a bench

    A bronze sculpture titled ‘Woman with Flowers,’ depicting a woman holding a bouquet while seated on a bench

    Walking a bit further, we reached the most meaningful destination of our stroll: The Tรผrkiye-Korea Friendship Monument (Tรผrkiye Kore Dostluk Anฤฑtฤฑ). Erected in 2007 through a collaboration between Korean artists and the city of EskiลŸehir, this monument honors the noble sacrifices of the Turkish veterans who fought for freedom during the Korean War, celebrating the deep-rooted brotherhood between our two nations.

    'Tรผrkiye-Korea Friendship Monument'

    Tรผrkiye-Korea Friendship Monument’

    Seeing our national flag, the Korean script, and a monument dedicated to the soldiers of a brother country who fought alongside us on the other side of the world brought a deep wave of emotion. Bowing our heads in a silent moment of remembrance, it was a profound time to reflect on the historical bonds tucked away in this beautiful university city.

    With countless sculptures and artworks scattered across its streets and parks like an open-air gallery, EskiลŸehir proved to be the ultimate healing destination where we could fully relax without looking at the clock.


    7. Trip Summary: A Perfect Pause, Much More Than a Pit Stop

    Our three days in EskiลŸehir, brought upon so suddenly by a snowstorm, turned out to be far more than a simple detour. Without racing to check off massive landmarks, simply grocery shopping and cooking in our quiet apartment, walking through energetic student streets, and listening to the thunderous daily roars of fighter jets provided the ultimate reset.

    This city beautifully reminded us that sometimes, when plans go awry, travel rewards you with the most wonderful gifts.

    (Please turn on Y0uTube CC(subtitles) and select your langiage in settings!)


    8. [Next Chapter Teaser] The Grand Finale of Our 1-Month Journey: An 8-Day Walking Marathon Through Every Corner of Istanbul

    The three days in EskiลŸehir, gifted to us by a snowstorm, were an invaluable pause for two travelers weary from long-distance driving. Cooking our own meals in a comfortable Airbnb, sipping ร‡ay while gazing at a magical castle from a lakeside cafe, and strolling through peaceful winter rivers and parks provided the perfect recharge for our next adventure. Now, with our energy fully restored, we head out to write the final chapter of our month-long expedition.

    In the next post, we finally enter the ultimate destination of our Turkish road trip: Istanbul.

    The moment we hand back the keys to the rental car that served as our faithful companion across thousands of kilometers of the Turkish continent, a bittersweet wave of emotion marks the beginning of our deep immersion into true Istanbul. Stepping away from the vehicle, an extraordinary 8-day walking tour entirely on ‘our own two feet’ unfolds through every hidden corner of the city.

    • The deep blue waves of the Bosphorus Strait, where East and West silently meet.
    • The grand majesty of Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, stepping directly into brilliant history.
    • The fierce, vibrant rhythm of local life within the centuries-old maze of the Grand Bazaar.
    • The hidden charm of secret Istanbul alleyways that no rental car traveler could ever reach…

    Using our accommodation in the Old City as a base, we rode the iconic red trams like a time machine through Istanbul. We will thoroughly share our experiences visiting the peak of opulence at Topkapฤฑ Palace and Dolmabahรงe Palace, the mysterious depths of the Basilica Cistern and Archaeological Museum, the vivid local colors of Balat and the Kariye Museum, the historic St. Anthony of Padua Church on ฤฐstiklal Street, and the ultra-modern views from the Sapphire Observation Deck!

    On top of that, we will reveal our deeply personal memories from joining a mosaic lamp-making workshop and the breathtaking moments of a golden sunset cruise along the Bosphorus. Stripped of a steering wheel, what face did the true Istanbul reveal to us?

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